Bite Club: Spicy vegan curry at Hat Yai

The menu: This street-style Thai spot is named after a city near the Malaysian border and specializes in fried chicken, curry and crispy roti (pan-fried flatbread) with rotating specials.

• Since I'm on a vegetarian kick, I ordered the vegan curry, roti and a coconut mango horchata.

The bite: This curry has a silky aroma — it's the perfect balance of sweet and spicy. The rich coconut curry is loaded with cauliflower, eggplant and cherry tomatoes and topped with crispy shallots. Be warned: It's spicy! Alternating spoonfuls with a bite of rice and roti makes it an overall rewarding meal.

The bottom line: It's no surprise this fast casual Thai restaurant is from the creator of hotspots Paadee, Eem and Langbaan — Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom.

• The cuisine is equally elevated, but in a laid-back atmosphere.