Jul 25, 2023 - Food and Drink

Bite Club: Ukrainian-style vareniki at Kachka

The "herring in a fur coat" is the plate my friend had. Photo: Meira Gebel/Axios

Welcome back to Bite Club, y'all! This past week I was craving dumplings, but instead of heading to XLB, where I normally get my veggie-filled, steamed dough fix, I decided to try something new.

The place: Kachka (960 SE 11TH Ave).

The menu: This spot is well-known for its Soviet-era cuisine with nods to "czarist excess and traditional rustic foodways," according to the restaurant's website.

  • Notorious for its assortment of meats, cheeses and bread, plus the "herring under a fur coat" (seven-layer dip, Russian style), Kachka also serves four types of Ukrainian dumplings, which you may have seen in the freezer section of New Seasons.

The bite: When the vareniki cheese and chive dumplings arrived at the table, I was immediately comforted by the savory smell. Topped with a generous dollop of sour cream and crunchy scallions, each bite felt as if I was sinking deeper into the world's comfiest couch.

  • I also paired the dumplings with the restaurant's made-to-order piroshki, yeasted buns featuring seasonal ingredients.

The bottom line: Truly decadent. If you're looking for something to feed to your soul and fill your belly, this is a top-notch choice for lunch. Just make sure you have somewhere to nap close by.


Get more local stories in your inbox with Axios Portland.


Support local journalism by becoming a member.

Learn more

More Portland stories

No stories could be found


Get a free daily digest of the most important news in your backyard with Axios Portland.


Support local journalism by becoming a member.

Learn more