For your next noodle craving, seek out Toya Ramen

Meira Gebel

Top-down view of a ramen bowl with corn, seaweed, pork, and onions on a wooden table; a glass of orange juice with ice and straw; a small vase with pale flowers; a water glass; and a navy napkin with chopsticks. — A slurpin' good time. Photo: Meira Gebel/Axios

It may still be summer, but the air is starting to feel crisp. So much so that I recently ventured out for one of my favorite cold-weather meals — ramen.

Toya Ramen, on the corner of Southeast Stark and Eighth Avenue across the street from Slammer Tavern, has been on my list since the Oregonian anointed it the city's best.

The vibe: Former Eem chef Colin Yoshimoto started experimenting with making ramen during the pandemic before teaming up with Kevin Trinh, Damian Lillard's longtime private chef, to turn the concept into a full-fledged restaurant.

Toya's menu is anchored by house-made noodles and pristine chicken broths.

Plus: It draws inspiration from all over — you'll be able to pick out Yoshimoto's Chinese, Thai and Italian influences, as well as nods to his Hawaiian roots.

What to order: The ramen, duh. The shoyu bowls will showcase depth, while the shio leans brighter with dashi, citrus and black truffle meatballs.

For something different: The soupless carbonaramen tosses hand-massaged noodles with chicken butter, speck, onsen egg, parmesan and pecorino.

Don't skip the sides. The crispy gau gee (pork dumplings with spicy soy mustard) and fried chicken are obvious standouts, but the pork cutlet tonkatsu is a must — fried to order and served with Japanese barbecue sauce.

The bottom line: I went during lunchtime on a weekend and was one of two parties. Don't be dismayed by an empty dining room. It was super laid-back and worth the hype.

If you go: Toya Ramen (803 SE Stark St.) is open at 11am daily.

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For your next noodle craving, seek out Toya Ramen

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