Nodoguro embraces new era in downtown Portland
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Nodoguro's new space inside the historic Morgan Building looks a lot different than any of the restaurant's other iterations. Photo: Courtesy of Nodoguro
Nodoguro, one of Portland's top Japanese fine-dining destinations, opens its new downtown restaurant Friday — a major move for chef-owner Ryan Roadhouse and a big win for the struggling central city.
The big picture: When the owners of the historic Morgan Building contacted Roadhouse about moving his reservation-only restaurant of 11 years to Tercet's former balcony space, he initially objected.
- But over the course of a year, he said, he felt new energy surrounding downtown's renaissance — citing the introduction of the James Beard Public Market, the Portland Art Museum's expansion and several Old Town revitalization projects.
- Plus: The opportunity to finally have a full kitchen and bigger dining room were too good to pass up.
What he's saying: "When there's a lot of fear surrounding something, a lot of times maybe that's the time to go into it," Roadhouse, a finalist for this year's James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northwest and Pacific, told Axios.
- "For me, it feels like we're nearing a point where it's all up from here."
Between the lines: Nodoguro's previous location, on NE 23rd Avenue in Kerns, will turn into Peter Cat full time — Roadhouse's izakaya-style dining series focused on sake pairings.
The vibe: Roadhouse and his team took inspiration from Japan's Taishō era for the design of the new space, embracing art deco style — expect deep jewel tones, velvety fabrics, dark wood and brass fixtures.
- More square footage also meant Roadhouse could add movement to dinner. "We're gonna start it as almost like acts of a play," he said.
- Nodoguro will now have two seatings of 15 guests per night and offer two modern kaiseki dining tracks: Either its signature 15-course sousaku tasting menu with a composed rice dish, starting at $195, or a more hardcore 20-plus-course option.
- All guests start their journey in the entryway lounge with a glass of bubbles and then head to the dining room for table service. For the extended version, diners finish at the chef's counter with sushi omakase.
Best bites: Nodoguro regulars can expect the same Kyoto-style cuisine from Roadhouse, but with a new concept focused on dishes that come from various terrain.
- There'll be an olive tapenade and squid ink cracker with sea urchin alongside clarified dashi with seaweed and radish representing the ocean; sake-steamed abalone for the deep sea; and a field-inspired tartare of duck with shiitake mushroom and sea grapes.
What's next: Starting next month, guests will be able to book reservations via OpenTable instead of purchasing tickets on Nodoguro's website.
If you go: Nodoguro (515 SW Broadway, Suite 100) is open 5:30-8pm, Wednesday through Saturday.