Feb 20, 2026 - Food and Drink
This Lent, go beyond the fish fry with these Indy meals
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Illustration: Lindsey Bailey/Axios
Lent began this week, which means it's officially fish fry season.
The big picture: During the 40 days of Lent, observers abstain from meat on Fridays.
- Catholic rules disallow meat from warm-blooded animals (think chicken, cows, etc.), but cold-blooded animals (fish and other seafood) are OK.
- This practice gave rise to the fish fry, a delicious tradition.
Yes, but: There are more (and more interesting) ways to abstain from meat.
Here are seven of my favorite meat-free meals in the city:
🍤 Orange shrimp from Asian Harbor
- The shrimp come lightly breaded, à la orange chicken, in the same tangy sauce and with a bit of broccoli.
- It scratches the itch for Chinese takeout and reheats well.
🍗 "Chicken" tenders from Baby's
- The fake chicken is so perfectly breaded and fried, I did a double-take, making sure it wasn't the real thing. They're crispy, juicy and so, so good.
- The fries they come with don't hurt, either.
- Plus: Baby's offers an Impossible patty option for its beloved burgers and a very enticing chili mac with vegan chili.
- Firm, slightly chewy cubes of tofu and tender half moons of lotus root are tossed in a sauce made from fermented beans and chili paste. You wouldn't necessarily know that's what it's made from, though — no beans in sight.
- It's saucy, spicy and delicious.
- It's sushi, but for when you're really hungry.
- And, since it's totally customizable, there's something for everyone.
- My favorite has spicy tuna, brown rice, avocado, edamame and eel sauce.
🥦 Broccolini taco from Julieta Taco Shop
- Perfectly roasted broccolini is tossed in a chipotle sauce and tucked into a soft tortilla with onions and herbs.
- It is one of the best things I've eaten. I think about it all the time.
🥘 Chipotle seitan from La Margarita
- Succulent seitan strips are cooked with tender cactus in a creamy, dreamy chipotle sauce that steals the show.
- It's served with rice, beans, guac and tortillas.
🥪 The Gander from Goose the Market
- The vegan take on Goose's popular Batali (and its three kinds of meat) fills sub-style bread with a spicy tomato sauce, shredded vegan mozzarella and mayo, pickled onions and spicy giardiniera.
- It's spicy and tangy and probably what Aristotle was talking about when he coined the phrase "the whole is greater than the sum of the parts."
