Chicago confidential: Holiday things to do (and skip)
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Illustration: Maura Losch/Axios
The first snow has fallen. The lights are twinkling. And holiday cheer is flowing throughout the Chicago area.
The big picture: The city has grand traditions around the holiday season, and people sometimes wait hours to partake in these annual festivities, sometimes just to say they did.
Yes, but: You may be wondering if there are better and more authentic ways to spend that holiday cheer (and money).
Here's the official Axios Chicago guide to experience the holiday season like a local:
Ice skating
What they'll tell you to do: Ice skating at Maggie Daley Park. The ribbon is celebrating its 10th anniversary, and it is amazing to ice skate in Chicago's front yard.
Yes, but: You wait in line for skates just to shuffle along the very crowded ribbon.
What you should do instead: Hit the ice where the locals practice. The Chicago Blackhawks Community Ice Rink near the United Center has public skating times with fewer crowds.
- Plus: It's indoors.
Tree lighting ceremonies
What they'll tell you to do: Check out the Christmas tree lighting at Millennium Park. Well, tough luck, that already happened. It's also Chicago's version of the tree lighting at Rockefeller Center, which can be tourist-heavy.
What you should do: What's better than one bright tree? How about thousands of lit-up trees on 50 acres? Morton Arboretum's Illumination: Tree Lights display takes this west suburban gem to the next level for the holidays. Best part? No tree gets killed.
Bars and restaurants
What they'll tell you to do: Pop-up bars are all the rage right now, including Mariah Carey's official jam in the Virgin Hotel. But those are temporary. You're looking to create traditions.
- Caveat: Carrie enjoyed her time with the Queen of Christmas as you can see above!
What you should do: If you want real Chicago holiday cheer, go to Miller's Pub on Wabash in the Loop and order a Tom & Jerry or The Berghoff and order the schnitzel.
- If you roll a couple of miles north to Division Street, you can partake in one of Chicago's grandest traditions: the annual Christmas decoration freak out at the legendary Butch McGuire's. The floor will be very sticky; we've warned you.
- Also, the best dive bars in Chicago leave Christmas lights up year-round. Head to any neighborhood and look for the one with no sign.
Light shows
What they'll tell you to do: ZooLights. The gigantic light show blinks and blurs throughout the Lincoln Park Zoo with the Chicago skyline as the backdrop. This is extremely popular, with big crowds and thousands of strollers.
- Pro tip: It's free on Mondays.
What you should do: Chicagoans avoid crowds like the plague, but we are OK sitting in traffic all day. So our suggestion is to drive through the light show at Guaranteed Rate Field in Bridgeport. It's truly one of the best innovations from the pandemic.
- Sync up the music and slowly drive through lights, as nature intended.
Downtown traditions
What they'll tell you to do: Walnut Room at Macy's. Sure, the restaurant is great to bring Grandma and the hangry kids who just stood in a three-hour line to see Santa.
- We'd suggest saving that trip for the offseason when they do drag brunches.
What you should do: Holiday Tea at The Drake. If you are looking to leave the kiddos at home and turn that tea into a delicious strong martini, check out the fancy Mile High Club at the Four Seasons, which is in a renovated residence. Very Chicago.
Christkindlmarket
What they'll tell you to get: The gluhwein at the Christkindlmarket in Daley Plaza. The annual Christmas village is beloved across the Midwest and an amazing spot to sip on some warm wine after work.
What you should get instead: Our readers gave us some recommendations back in 2022, including the cheese raclette sandwich, the double bratwurst and the Pfeffernüsse.
Arts and culture
What they'll tell you to see: The Macy's window displays. Yes, but this is Chicago, so they will forever be known as the Marshall Field's window displays. So out of solidarity, skip.
What you should see instead: Head south! Gawk at decorations on the beautiful homes in Kenwood, Hyde Park and Jackson Park Highlands before visiting Pullman National Monument for the Winter Lights of Pullman on Saturday, Nov. 30.
- Really wanna feel like a local? Hit Blue Island's annual light parade on Saturday, Dec. 7.
Neighborhood shopping
What they'll tell you to do: Get on the Red Line and head to Wrigleyville for all sorts of holiday revelry, mostly surrounding Wrigley Field. It's geared towards families with little kids and single 24-year-olds. You've been warned.
What you should get instead: Jump on the Brown Line to Lincoln Square. There is a unique hustle and bustle in this Northwest Side neighborhood that is reminiscent of a German village that will fulfill your holiday cheer from Giddings Plaza down to Wells Park.
- It's small business overload too: Stop at Enjoy, Book Cellar, Merz Apothecary and Timeless Toys. Also get a sausage for Dad at Gene's! He deserves it.
Music and concerts
What they'll tell you to listen to: Chicago has world-class symphonies, operas and holiday-themed concerts. That includes the world-famous Vienna Boys Choir at the Symphony Center and the legendary "Songs of Good Cheer" concert at the Old Town School of Folk Music.
What you should listen to: Tubas! The annual tradition of TubaChristmas will take over the Palmer House Hotel on Dec. 21. Tuba players from around the world come together and play Christmas carols. They've been doing it for over 50 years. What else do you need to know?
- Or if you want a free concert, head down to Palmer House around lunchtime throughout the holiday season. Chances are middle school choirs will be performing.
Theater and performance
What they'll tell you to see: Holiday theater like Goodman's "A Christmas Carol" and the Joffrey Ballet's "The Nutcracker" are timeless. They serve as a standard bearer for holiday theater. But we've seen it several times, and those ticket prices can be steep.
What you should see instead: It's not a Chicago tradition, but it surely should become one. Comedian Matt Rogers is at the Vic on Dec. 21. The self-proclaimed "Prince of Christmas" (and co-host of the Las Culturistas podcast) brings along his live band for a night of raunch holiday-themed crooning.
- The national tour is becoming an annual tradition after his critically acclaimed Showtime Christmas special aired in 2021.