How Zupan's adapted to Portland's changing food scene
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John Zupan, left, founded Zupan's Markets 50 years ago. His son, Mike, later took over operations. Photo: Courtesy of Zupan's Markets
Throughout its 50-year history, Zupan's Markets has undergone a series of transformations — from a traditional commodity-based grocer to emphasizing fresh, hyperlocal and artisan products — to remain a beloved pillar of Portland's food scene.
The big picture: Its most recent investment into ready-made meals reflects the chain's latest adaption and broader social changes in how people are eating, CEO Mike Zupan told Axios.
Catch up quick: Founded in 1975 by John Zupan, a former produce manager at Fred Meyer, the independent store was designed to compete with big chains (Safeway and Albertson's) by focusing on can't-get-anywhere-else freshness.
- The store offered customers a "European-style shopping experience," Mike Zupan said — purchasing ingredients for immediate consumption — a rarity at the time when "center aisle" items like canned beans and boxed cereal were king.
- Its flagship Burnside location opened in 1994 and was much smaller, focused on specialty perishables. It was a model that stuck. The opening of its two other west side stores, on Macadam and in Lake Oswego, quickly followed.
What he's saying: To this day, staff routinely offer samples of in-season produce and highlight imported and local products, regardless of appearance.
- For many local farmers and producers, their first taste of retail is often through Zupan's — where their products make it onto shelves before anywhere else.
- "We're always searching for the best-tasting product, not necessarily always the best-looking product," Mike Zupan said, who took over the executive role in the early aughts, shortly before his father died.
The latest: Five decades on, Zupan's customers still crave quality but are more time-strapped. The evolution of its deli department into a high-end all-day food service reflects a broader trend of grocery-as-restaurant.
- Now — alongside lean slabs of lamb, plump heirloom tomatoes and hundreds of pungent cheese varieties — you'll find grab-and-go overnight oats, chile lime roasted half chickens, poke bowls, pasta salad and take-and-bake barbecue ribs.
The bottom line: Looking at the next 50 years, Mike Zupan is betting convenience and quality don't have to be at odds, so long as the company remains guided by its founding principle.
- "People are always willing to spend on food, but spend on quality," he said.