Bite Club: Pad Kee Mao at Paadee

The menu: If you're a fan of Ninsom's other restaurants, you begin to notice subtle differences between each menu. At Paadee the focus is on Northern Thai cuisine like som tum (papaya salad), laab (finely chopped meats in lettuce cups), and hand-ripped noodles.

• I chose the Pad Kee Mao, or "drunken noodles" (the literal translation), with red pepper, scallion, onion, tofu, chili paste and torn basil.

🌶️ The bite: I didn't expect such a powerful punch from such simple flavors. With a squeeze of lime, the dish's simplicity is instantly elevated and addictive — somehow finding the perfect balance between savory and sweet, with a notch of heat not for the weak.

The bottom line: Whether you sit down to enjoy, or order it to take out, Paadee remains a reliable staple in Portland's plethora of Thai restaurants.