New French fare is everywhere these days
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Gnocchi Parisan at Gavroche. Photo: Monica Eng/Axios
In recent months, Chicago's selection of French bistros has bubbled over like fine champagne, but each has its own personality. Vive la difference!
Gavroche: This 32-seat Old Town eatery presents a modern take on French classics by chef Mitchell Acuña and veteran restaurateur Jason Chan — who, full disclosure, is my high school pal.
- Antique light fixtures, buttery banquettes and quirky vintage art aim to create a room "where James Bond would take his wife to dinner," Chan says.
Dig in: The gnocchi Parisian ($24) lands crispy pillows of dough in a rich lemon truffle cream topped with smoked trout roe — one of the most delicious things I've eaten this year.
- Other standouts at a recent press dinner included corn, grapes and cream custard in an arpège egg ($15), a silky caviar-crowned turbot with melted leeks, the gruyère crisp-topped onion soup ($16) and dry-aged poussin rouge chicken with black truffles and crispy potatoes ($26).
- Also, don't miss pastry chef Christine McCabe's chocolate mousse topped with sea salt and olive oil that haunts me still.
Le Petit Marcel: This new Lincoln Park brasserie offers straightforward French classics in two dining rooms, one dominated by a bustling bar.
Dig in: Find oysters ($21), a traditional French onion soup full of cheese and croutons ($17), escargot covered in puff pastry ($17), and mussels cooked in Normandy cider ($18).
- Entrees include salmon wellington ($27), French mac 'n cheese and steak frites featuring a full-flavored rump steak but pretty soggy fries ($29).
Other newish French spots include La Grande Boucherie, Petite Pomeroy and Petite Vie Brasserie by chef Paul Virant that opened in Western Springs in June.
In non-French restaurant news...
Fresh Market in Lincoln Park: Fans of the old Dom's at Halsted and Diversey will feel right at home amid the gourmet cheese, wine, produce, dry goods and frozen foods at this upscale market that opened in the Dom's space.
- The store includes a cafe, pizza and sandwich station, grill and sushi/poke bar, two outdoor patios and an indoor area where folks sip, nibble and work on their laptops.
Dig in: We loved the crispy white cacio fromage pizza slice ($2.99) but hated the cold ensalada pizza ($2.99) that resembled ketchup on Wonder bread topped with arugula.
- My salmon poke ($13) from the choose-your-own-ingredients poke bar was fresh and fine. But the smash burger ($9.99) from the grill station emerged seared on only one side.
Other newbies include: Latin-inspired Lincoln Park spot Ceiba and a bar in the old River North HUB51 spot called Gus' Sip and Dip focusing on affordable cocktails.