Chef Grant Achatz pays tribute to Charlie Trotter
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Potato carrot cannelloni. Photo: Courtesy of Next
Next in Fulton Market has resurrected Charlie Trotter's famed Lincoln Park restaurant in a series of tribute dinners open to guests through the fall.
Why it matters: The series brings together the work of arguably our two greatest chefs — Grant Achatz and the late Trotter, who didn't always get along but have found delicious harmony here, nearly 11 years after Trotter's death.
- Achatz worked at Trotter's restaurant right after culinary school in 1995 and returned to Lincoln Park to open Alinea in 2005, followed by Next in 2011.
Driving the news: I made a recent reservation (under a different name) to see if the dinner really captures the Trotter experience and whether it's worth $175-$235 per person, before tax, tip and drinks.
The inspiration: "Most of the dishes are from [Trotter's] cookbooks, dishes I prepared while working there, and of course, using basic construction guidelines to ensure the menu progression flows smoothly while giving guests a wide range of flavors, textures and techniques," Achatz tells Axios.
What you get: A two-hour meal of eight set courses introduced by servers explaining how the elements reflect Trotter's passion for jazz, Japanese cooking, game meat, seasonal produce and even Nancy Silverton's panna cotta.
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Dig in: The meal starts with a ring of Osetra caviar, sea urchin, vodka créme fraiche and daikon that sings of the sea with a whisper of fruity sweetness. Other standout courses include:
- Summer-kissed heirloom tomato soup with crunchy dried tomato bits and an avocado coriander sorbet.
- A slice of rare venison over shredded oxtail infused with cherry juice and surrounded by a rich mole and cashew vinaigrette.
- Buttery Peruvian sea bass over chanterelles and a veal reduction.
- Puddingy banana bread, laced with warm chocolate ganache and topped with a coconut cookie, ripe bananas and malt ice cream that I still can't stop thinking about.
Drink up: Wine pairings, starting with Champagne and ending with port, range from $135 to $345 for ultra reserve vintages. Non-alcoholic pairings cost $75.
The vibe: Despite the fancy food and service, the room bubbles with warm conviviality.
- On Wednesday, many diners swapped Trotter memories with folks at other tables over a lively jazz soundtrack.
- Some guests even wore sneakers and jeans, to my (old person) dismay.
What they're saying: "The meal was just like eating at Trotters," Urban Belly owner and Trotter veteran chef Bill Kim tells Axios. "The food was so good, service impeccable and the wine and N/A beverage pairings, which I had, were so impressive!
- "I thought I was in the Twilight Zone traveling back in time … [remembering] Grant working the vegetable station, plating the potato cannelloni and helping put out the panna cotta with the assorted dried fruits," said Kim, who worked in the Trotter kitchen with Achatz in 1995. "I think chef Trotter would be very proud."
The verdict: For those who want to rekindle their memories of this legendary restaurant or to try "Trotter's food" for the first time, a ticket to Next could make a fine holiday present.
- The restaurant can even make modifications for dietary restrictions.
P.S. No, you will not still be hungry after this meal. If I was full, anyone would be full.
If you go: Next is serving the Trotter menu five nights a week and taking reservations through November on Tock.
- The final Trotter dinner will be serve on New Year's Eve.