Duck wings take off as a hot menu item in Chicago

Some local duck wing dishes have recently sent my heart aflutter.

• One comes from at a hot new Fulton Market cocktail lounge and another has been wowing South Siders for years.

The Duck Inn: I tried Chef Kevin Hickey's Asian-style duck wings for the first time this summer, but they've been a top seller at his celebrated Bridgeport restaurant almost since it opened.

What he's saying: "We season, grill, confit and then chill them," Hickey tells Axios. "Then we toss them in cornstarch, fry them and serve them in a sauce of sweet soy, bell pepper, ginger garlic and fresh chili."

• Once, when Hickey let a staffer change the recipe, he says, "it almost caused a citywide revolt."

After: The crackly, succulent fried wings (two for $20) at this chic sister lounge next to two-Michelin star Ever, take their inspiration from Vietnam with a sweet, sour, funky vibe derived from fish sauce, mint and fresh lime juice.

What he's saying: "After's menu is inspired by the flavors I enjoy, including Vietnamese flavors," Ever and After executive chef Curtis Duffy tells Axios. "We knew we wanted to do wings of some sort,  and I thought duck was an interesting choice."

Of note: If you eat them with your hands, a staffer may bring a warm towel that initially looks like a marshmallow. But don't be like this guy and eat it.