Salt Lake flavor du jour: Sichuan grilled fish at Beijing

Catch up quick: Picking a fish clean, right off the bones, was one of my favorite culinary experiences when I lived in China — and this addition to Beijing's menu took me straight back to those rotating banquet tables.

How it works: The tilapia is gutted and splayed, with crosswise slices for pulling apart — but otherwise it's intact as it's grilled and braised in sauce.

• You pick off the meat with chopsticks — and eat carefully, because the bones are part of the fun.

Friction point: Family-style dining with chopsticks sometimes gets a bad rap because people often serve themselves with utensils they've also used for eating.

Yes, but: I've never gotten sick after a banquet, and it makes eating a big fish a social event, with folks jokingly squabbling over — or generously sharing —the best parts.

What's inside: Lots of chilis for heat, Sichuan peppercorns for the buzzy "ma" sensation — and literal fire, as the fish is arrayed over a tabletop stove with corn, lotus root and other veggies.

Pro tips: My family of three would have been sated sharing the fish along with a veggie dish and appetizer. We also ordered the cumin lamb and left very full.

• If you aren't chopstick-proficient, you can ask for a fork.