Nimblefish chef to open Sushi Fukami downtown
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Every slice is part of the show. Photo: Courtesy of Kari Young
Chef Cody Auger, the force behind Portland's much-celebrated Nimblefish, is bringing a more intimate vision downtown with Sushi Fukami, an eight-seat omakase restaurant opening next month.
The big picture: After a decade of building Nimblefish into one of the city's most acclaimed sushi counters, Auger told Axios the new project is his chance to focus on a style of preparation rooted in traditional Japanese Edomae cuisine — meticulously cured seasonally driven bites.
- The move is also a vote of confidence in downtown Portland, where Auger said he sees momentum returning as diners seek exclusive experiences.
- "I finally feel like we're at a spot where I can really do everything I've been working on over the last 20 years and have it in a setting that makes sense," he said.
Zoom in: The 700-square-foot restaurant, located on Southwest 12th Avenue and Alder, by Multnomah Whiskey Library, seats guests at a large hinoki cypress centerpiece imported from Japan.
- Expect low, moody lighting, textured plastered walls and a minimalist design intended to keep your focus on the plate in front of you.
- There won't be any traditional refrigerated sushi case separating diners from Auger, either. Instead, Auger designed the space so that guests can watch every step and slice.
Plus: He hopes the intimate space will offer service that is "somewhat unseen" — where diners "never felt like they needed to look around for anything."
Best bites: Sushi Fukami — developed from Auger's longstanding pop-up series of the same name — will serve roughly 21 to 23 courses for about $175 to $190.
- Dishes will be composed in traditional Edomae style, a 19th-century technique using seafood caught in Tokyo Bay and prepared with salt, vinegar, soy or kelp curing before serving over rice.
- Auger said the opening menu will feature items such as skipjack tuna smoked and seared with straw-fed flame, steamed matsutake mushroom and a baked cake-style tamago he said he's spent years perfecting.
- Wine, sake and select spirits will round out the beverage options.
Between the lines: Auger has stepped back from day-to-day operations at Nimblefish while he makes the finishing touches on Sushi Fukami. He'll remain an owner of and oversee Nimblefish but plans to primarily focus on the new project.
- "I think people are starting to really appreciate the extra steps we're doing to really curate these experiences, all the fine details," he said.
If you go: Auger said he plans to open Sushi Fukami (1128 SW Alder St.) in mid-August and in the future he may expand to serve 16 guests per evening Thursday through Sunday.