The lines at Pipsqueak Bagels are worth it

Best bites: Portland has plenty of bagel options, but I've found most of them to be lacking in heft. Pipsqueak offers a robust, chewy new alternative.

• I grabbed myself a rosemary bagel with scallion cream cheese and a Sunday Best — with red onion, caper, dill and lemon served with smoked salmon — for my wife.
• The rosemary and salt weren't overpowering and let the denseness of the bagel do the heavy lifting, while the scallion cream cheese imparted just enough flavor without getting funky.
• The Sunday Best featured fresh fish, tangy capers and vegan cream cheese that my tasting partner had trouble distinguishing from the real thing.

The vibe: I don't live far from the shop on Southeast Gladstone and cruised by on opening day only to be turned around by the roughly 100 people lined up down the block.

• I went back on Monday around their 7am opening time and still waited behind around 30 other hungry Portlanders.
• Service moves quickly once inside, with efficient ordering despite long lines.

If you go: Pipsqueak doubled production to 2,000 bagels daily after early sellouts, but you'll still want to get there early.

• They're open Thursday–Monday from 7am to 2pm at 3844 Southeast Gladstone.