The Paper Bridge stands out in Portland's dining scene
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In the two years since The Paper Bridge opened in Portland's Central Eastside, the Northern Vietnamese-style restaurant has received a handful of national accolades securing its popularity and one-of-a-kindness.
The big picture: The buzz is rooted in commitment. Co-owners Quynh Nguyen and Carlo Reinardy hand-make their rice noodles daily and the 14-page menu provides the cultural history of each dish — tracing its lineage to inform diners not of what to expect on their plate, but of the long tradition.
Zoom in: Here you'll find a little of what you may already know and more of what you may not. Yes, there are bowls of steamy, fragrant pho with bone marrow-rich broth, thinly sliced beef, roasted duck leg and grilled pork.
- But there's also puffed Dungeness crab fritters, crispy salt chicken and cháo lòng (rice porridge made with pork offal), a street food staple.
- Pro tip: If the menu is overwhelming, have your server guide you. I simply asked for something crunchy, something fried and spicy and a bowl of noodles with a delicate broth.
Best bites: Always order a salad. The lemongrass chicken and pomelo salad on the specials menu cured my craving for something fresh — the sweet, zingy citrus and bright herbs were so delicious it disappeared from the table in seconds.
- The shining star was the bún chả mai dịch, a five-spice tilapia and fish cake noodle dish, which was peppered with dill, mustard greens and pickled garlic and provided a unique bite each time.
If you go: The Paper Bridge (828 SE Ash St.) is open 10:30am to 2pm and 4-9pm Thursday through Monday.