Dec 1, 2025 - Food and Drink

OK Chicken & Khao Soi brings northern Thailand to Division

Meira Gebel

Left image shows a white plate of papaya salad with peanuts and green beans. Right image shows bowls of noodle soup topped with crispy fried egg strips, sides of pickled vegetables and sliced red onions on a patterned table. — A few of the dishes the team behind OK Chicken & Khao Soi ate while visiting Chiang Mai. Photos: Courtesy of Sam Smith

The building on Southeast Division that once housed Pok Pok — whose sticky fish-sauce wings put Portland on the culinary map — has sat empty since the pandemic, when Andy Ricker closed the chain.

The big picture: Early next year, the team behind a slew of other Thai-inspired powerhouse kitchens (Yaowarat, Langbaan and Eem) is planning to bring the building back to life with OK Chicken & Khao Soi.

Chef Sam Smith, veteran bar manager Eric Nelson and James Beard Award-winning restauranteur Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom decided to open the new restaurant after noticing a gap in the Portland market for northern Thai cuisine.

State of plate: Inspiration for the menu came from several trips to Chiang Mai over the last year, Smith told Axios. "One of the ways that we want to differentiate ourselves is truly focusing on the regionality," he said.

Centerpieces include coconut-curry noodle soup and fried chicken along with grilled meats like spare ribs, pork belly and sai ua, an aromatic Thai-style sausage that will be made in-house.
The menu will also feature a northern-Thai-style larb (minced meat salad), defined by its warm spices, crispy pork fat, shallots and smattering of herbs. Relishes — made from spicy pork, tomato and green chile — will be served on the side.

Plus: Papaya and spicy pomelo salad offerings will rotate seasonally, too.

The vibe: "Traveling around Chiang Mai, things felt a little more simple and not quite as lavish," Smith said. To reflect that, OK Chicken & Khao Soi will have a checklist, picture menu (but still table service), homey decor and late-night karaoke.

If you go: OK Chicken & Khao Soi (3226 SE Division St.) plans to open sometime in January.

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OK Chicken & Khao Soi brings northern Thailand to Division

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