Bite Club: Antipasti and pasta at Luce

• Small plates of cool, marinated vegetables — like beets, mushrooms and carrots — are complemented by warm crostini smeared with rabbit liver mousse, bite-sized eggplant polpettes and stuffed olives.
• The rotating pastas and plates are the standouts, for sure. Served in both half and full sizes, they're perfect for sharing.

🌰 Best bites: The best dishes are the ones that play on the season, so be up to date with your produce chart.

• On a recent weeknight, that meant we ordered gnocchi smothered in cream and topped with chopped hazelnuts, spaghetti with chili and clams, plus an arugula salad with sliced pear and cappeletti in brodo.

The bottom line: It's amazing how flavorful and balanced each dish was with so few ingredients. We ordered a lot for just two people, but I wish we ordered more.

• The atmosphere was also warm and inviting. But with only a dozen tables, it fills up fast and it's first come, first served.
• So coming on a weeknight might be your best shot at eating some of the best Italian food in the city.