Crispy chicken katsu sandwiches stun at Tanaka
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Tanaka is located on the corner of SW 12th and Morrison, across the street from the First Presbyterian Church of Portland. Photo: Meira Gebel/Axios
The smell of warm, sweet Japanese milk bread — known as shokupan — hits you right when you swing open the doors to Tanaka, a downtown bakery known for its desserts and katsu sandwiches.
🍞 The menu: From the team behind Afuri, Tanaka focuses on katsu sandos, where panko-fried chicken, pork or tofu is complemented by Kewpie mayo, umami-rich tonkatsu sauce, and cabbage between two thick slices of fluffy milk bread, which is baked in-house.
- While the savory sandos are the stars, Tanaka also offers desserts like seasonal fruit sandwiches with whipped cream, matcha croissants, and ube-flavored mochi doughnuts, as well as burgers and brunch.
- I ordered the chicken katsu sando with a side of curry and a strawberry fruit sandwich.
🤤 The bite: I'm still trying to figure out how something can be crispy, soft, juicy, sweet and savory all at the same time.
- Crisp chicken cutlets are covered in a layer of soft, yuzu egg salad, while juicy, fresh cabbage is coated in tangy tonkatsu. A dip in the curry gravy heightens the whole thing, adding warmth and spice.
- The strawberry sando is soft and not too sweet. Something to stockpile in the fridge when you need a treat.
🏃🏼♀️ The bottom line: Tanaka owner Taichi Ishizuki predicts katsu sandwiches will catch on in the U.S. just as ramen has.
- He's preaching to the converted (me), so now it's your turn to find out.