Bite Club: Duck confit tamales at Chelo

• There's also seasonally-inspired tlayudas, an Oaxacan dish that traditionally consists of a large, crispy tortilla smothered with refried beans, salsa and salty cheese (you're given a pair of scissors to cut it into pizza-like slices).

🦆 The bite: We ordered nearly the entire menu, but the highlights included the confit duck and leek tamale, smothered in a rich, chocolate mole sauce, and the "esquites y almejas" — an elevated take on Mexican street corn salad, topped with clams, tajin, cherry tomatoes and crema.

• The squash tlayuda on special that night had ribbons of zucchini, blistered shishitos, peaches, zesty manchego cheese and a black bean puree I wish I could've taken home by the pound.

🕯️ The bottom line: So far, it's the best meal — with the warmest service — I've had in Portland this year.

• To top it off, the almond tres leches, served with berry meringues and pandan cream, came out with a candle.