Reviewed: Espiritu's food shines as bright as its cocktails

What I ordered:

• Queso fundido: Menonita cheese swims in a warm puddle of tomatillo salsa and is covered in thin onion straws. It's served with warm tortillas for dipping.
• Skirt steak special: The thin slice of steak is cooked medium rare and sits atop a pile of saucy baked beans. It's served with fried potatoes and a tortilla and hot salsa on the side.

The verdict: Holy moly. I could kick myself for not ordering food all the other times I visited. Even the simple menu items, like beans and potatoes, were perfectly prepared.

• Chef Roberto Centeno, who also works at Bacanora, is best known for his grilling skills. I was glad I trusted his team with the special meat dish of the day. The steak melted in my mouth and I was left to daydream about my return.