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Texas Monthly taco editor José Ralat, based in Oak Cliff, traveled 14,000 miles across the state and sampled over 1,200 tacos in six months to identify the top 50 tacos. Photo: Gregory Castillo/Axios
Texas Monthly taco editor José Ralat, based in Oak Cliff, traveled 14,000 miles across the state and sampled over 1,200 tacos to identify the top 50 tacos in Texas.
Why it matters: Ralat has been reporting on the Texas taco scene for 15 years. While working on this six-month project, he identified a shift in the Texas taco landscape.
- Ralat coined the phrase "new Tejano" to describe chefs and taqueros — many of whom are Mexican immigrants or first-generation Mexican Americans — who craft nostalgic dishes blending their heritage with Texas ingredients.
State of play: While Texas Monthly launched its top barbecue joints list in 1997, this is its first taco ranking. Like the barbecue list, the plan is to release a new taco ranking every four years. The first one came out Monday.
- Notable Dallas selections include Revolver Taco Lounge's octopus al pastor at No. 4 and Maskaras Mexican Grill's tacos ahogados GDL at No. 9.
- Six other North Texas tacos made the top 50, including Resident Taco's caramelized cauliflower and Zavala's Barbecue's Sloppy Juan.
- Ralat's pick for the No. 1 taco was the chile relleno at Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission. Chef Ana Liz Pulido won Best Chef - Texas at the prestigious James Beard Awards back in June.
The big picture: Texas Monthly's coverage can be a game-changer.
- Jalen Heard, co-owner of Goldee's BBQ, told filmmaker Alvin Zhou, "It'll take your business from 1 to 10."
- A waiter at Don Artemio, a spot in Fort Worth that made the top 50, said he uses Ralat's description of the restaurant's Nopalitos Fritos when speaking to diners.
The intrigue: Ralat traveled statewide without a car due to epilepsy, relying on buses, rideshares and friends for his taco quest.
Friction point: While the list has received mostly positive feedback, some backlash has emerged on social media.
- One Instagram user expressed frustration, saying, "Who really trusts Texas Monthly with tacos or Mexican food?"
- Another commented, "Disappointed — taco is culture, not hype."
What they're saying: "I'm passionate. Everyone has their favorites, and those choices reflect their personalities," Ralat says.
- "I was raised to be straightforward. Can we debate my picks? Yes, but let's do it in good faith."
Greg's thought bubble: I've been reviewing tacos for the @AxiosDallas Instagram page since March. I didn't expect that people would respond so passionately in the comment sections.
- Often, we connect flavors to memories from our childhood or meals with friends. If someone doesn't like a place you love, it can feel like a personal attack.
- It's important to remember that food criticism is always subjective. The way something tastes to you can be different from how it tastes to me.
- With that in mind, you never want to yuck someone's yum!
What's next: After traveling three weeks per month for half a year, Ralat is excited to be back home with his wife and kids.
- "I missed family movie nights because I was traveling so much. "I'd like to sleep," he says.
- "It's just back to normal. Writing, admin stuff, meetings. I'm going to enjoy the mundane stuff."
Go deeper: Follow Ralat's taco travels on Instagram.