A longtime food writer's guide to Thanksgiving in D.C.

The big picture: The nation's capital goes big for Thanksgiving, and I'm not just talking turkey pardons. You can work up an appetite with tons of races and turkey trots. Select bars and restaurants can serve alcohol until 4am through the long weekend (Nov. 27-Dec. 1). And a bunch of holiday attractions, from ice rinks to festive markets, go live around Thanksgiving.

• Plus, you can't beat free museums for getting family out of the house.

The intrigue: There are some cool only-in-Washington Thanksgiving traditions. One of my favorites is the free turkey fry Medium Rare owner Mark Bucher runs, now in its 17th year (at the Cleveland Park location from 10am-4pm).

• The community cooking party involves a fleet of fryers cooking 600-odd thawed birds between 8-12 lbs (first come, first served). Hot cider and good vibes usually flow.

For something older, history buffs can head to George Washington's gorgeous Mt. Vernon estate for tours and a classic Thanksgiving buffet.

Now, let's talk turkey.

Takeout

So many D.C. restaurants offer Thanksgiving to-go, including a la carte dishes to pad your table in addition to full feasts.

A few kinds of offerings that always catch my eye:

🔥 Barbecue: Leave the turkey smoking to the pitmasters! 2Fifty, the area's best 'cue spot, is serving wood-smoked meats and side trays for pickup in D.C. and Riverdale Park (it's popular, pre-order asap).

• Also great: Federalist Pig's "Fedsgiving," which has a ton of party-size and a la carte items. Also Silver and Sons chef-y BBQ menu.

🌎 Global feasts: The ol' turkey dinner is more interesting with an international spin. Think Moon Rabbit's Vietnamese American package ($295) with duck sausage-stuffed turkey and pho gravy. Or Amy Brandwein's elegant Italian offers from Centrolina.

• Also: a fragrant Persian-style spread from Joon. Or Hiraya's Filipino "Thanksgiving Fiesta Kit" ($150) with smoked lechon-style turkey or duck, dirty garlic rice and more. And Amparo Fondita's Mexican adobo-style turkey and sides. I could go on …

💲Budget-friendly: Unconventional Diner is one of my go-to takeout spots, and they're doing a full, soup-to-pie spread for two ($95 total). There's also a $55 dine-in option ($28 for kids).

• Founding Farmers dishes up a huge heat-and-eat menu for pickup around the DMV, which includes full dinners for four starting at around $45 per person (plus vegan options).

🌱 Vedge/vegan: No one will miss the meat with Mita's elegant takeout package ($245+), starring a vegetable wellington, several sides and pumpkin cheesecake dessert.

• For a la carte, DC Vegan has a bunch of good-looking options.

🥧 Treats: Leave the baking to the pros. Bayou Bakery chef David Guas is a multitalented pastry wiz and his T-Day menu is stuffed with goodies (biscuits, pies, loaves), plus tasty-looking sides.

• I'm also seriously tempted by The Dabney and Petite Cerise chef Jeremiah Langhorne's pies, wines and eggy "dabnog."

Dine out

Unlike, say, Christmas Day, most restaurants around D.C. don't close for Thanksgiving — and a lot of them go all-out with set menus or buffets.

But sometimes a big prix-fixe is too much. A friend recently asked me for something cozy and not over-the-top that could satisfy a range of tastes. A handful of restaurants are business as (mostly) usual on the holiday, with a turkey special for traditionalists.

🥩St. Anselm: I love the Union Market tavern's cozy vibe. A handful of Thanksgiving specials, including turkey, are always on tap, along with decadent steaks for your cousin who thinks "turkey is boring."

🍝 L'Ardente: Chef David Deshaies' hot spot is doing the glam Italian equivalent of a blue plate special (turkey, marsala gravy, potato gratin, mushroom stuffing, etc.) plus the full menu, including the 40-layer lasagna centerpiece.

🦃 Nina May: Shaw's lovely farmhouse-style restaurant serves a family-style menu that's both elegant and familiar, and is reasonable compared to most prix-fixes at $75 per person.