Local Brief
Why plant-based dining is struggling in San Antonio
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The white mushroom salad from Clementine, a popular dish. Photo: Courtesy of Clementine
San Antonio's vegan and vegetarian dining scene is faltering in a tough economy and as consumers focus on protein, but experts say plant-forward dining isn't going anywhere in the long term.
Why it matters: Research consistently shows that eating less meat is one of the most impactful personal ways to combat climate change and improve health.
The big picture: Beef tallow is everywhere, meat sales hit a record high last year and the number of U.S. adults identifying as vegetarian or vegan has declined in recent years.
- Meat is no longer the bad guy on household tables, as diners seek meals that are protein-packed and comforting.
State of play: Local restaurants focused on meatless offerings are disappearing — Green Vegetarian Cuisine closed its doors this spring after 19 years in business.
- Project Pollo, a San Antonio startup for vegan fast food, lasted only a few years.
Zoom in: Elise Russ, pastry chef and co-owner of Clementine in Castle Hills, tells Axios that the local decline in meatless dining is directly tied to a tough economy.
- People are seeking comfort food — often dishes that are heavy on carbs, fats and meat, Russ says. When they're anxious about the world, they don't necessarily want to experiment with new food.
- Plus, people on GLP-1 weight loss drugs want protein, she says. Diners know meat offers that, and they don't always recognize the plant-based foods in which protein is plentiful.
What they're saying: Still, Clementine offers a range of meatless dishes that sell well, says Russ, who has been a vegetarian for more than 30 years. She thinks Clementine bucks the trend because they've been around long enough (eight years) to establish a relationship with diners who trust them.
The intrigue: More restaurants are offering meatless dishes on menus that also feed carnivores, chef Katrina Flores-Guzman, lecturing instructor at the Culinary Institute of America's San Antonio campus, tells Axios in an email.
- Culinary students lately are focused on locally sourced ingredients, which can boost vegetable dishes, per Flores-Guzman. The CIA integrates plant-forward cooking throughout its curriculum, she adds.
- "At the San Antonio campus, especially, students are exposed to diverse cultural cuisines that naturally incorporate plant-forward cooking," she says.
Between the lines: San Antonio lags behind other big cities in meatless and plant-based dining. Some of this is cultural — Texas is known for barbecue and Tex-Mex.
Yes, but: Some locals are reclaiming Mexican food as plant-based.
- San Antonio chef Dora Ramírez's cookbook, "Comida Casera," puts a plant-based spin on Mexican classics. The vegan tacos at Plantaqueria are often hailed as some of the best in the city.
Zoom out: Despite the decline, Russ still finds more vegetarian dining options than she did 15 years ago.
The bottom line: "Plant-forward cooking remains essential to the future of our food systems," Flores-Guzman says. "I also think the industry is moving toward flexibility, where menus can accommodate a wide variety of lifestyles and dietary preferences."