Soft opening: Reviewing food at The Park
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Eat egg rolls, not pizza. Photos: Ned Oliver/Axios
👋 Ned here, this time eating cheesesteak egg rolls at The Park.
What’s happening: The new entertainment mega venue off Hermitage Road features six restaurant stalls in a food court-type setting.
- I set out to find out if they are any good.
🍕 Details: I started with the pizza and burger stall — Vinny Smasharino’s — because when I toured the place before it opened, the general manager was extremely enthusiastic about the imported Italian pizza oven.
- The prosciutto caprese ($16) when I visited was passable, but doughy, over sauced and generally unbefitting of the prestigious oven that baked it.
🥡 On the other hand, the stall’s nightly special — a cheesesteak egg roll ($12) — was a crispy, melty delight.
- This was unexpected because it sounded sort of gross, and the person who took my order said they had not tried it and made clear they wouldn’t recommend it.
🍣 It was another mixed bag at the pan-Asian stall next door, Nori Squad.
- I went for the steamed bao buns ($14 for three). The charred short rib came out chewy and a bit gristly. But the veg option — a deep-fried piece of maitake mushroom — was delicate, with a rich, woodsy flavor.
🍦 My last stop was the ice cream shop, Sweet OG’s, which sells Galati Celeste alongside an array of pastries.
- I went for one of the signature milkshakes — the coconut caramel crunch ($8). It was over the top and a little on the sweet side, but I loved it, especially the texture of the coconut mixed in.
Of note: There are also stalls that serve fried chicken sandwiches, tacos and bowls.
The bottom line: There’s good food to be had among all the duckpin bowling, mini golf and cocktail bars.
- Just order carefully.