Mar 31, 2023 - Things to Do

Soft opening: Reviewing food at The Park

Eat egg rolls, not pizza. Photos: Ned Oliver/Axios

👋 Ned here, this time eating cheesesteak egg rolls at The Park.

What’s happening: The new entertainment mega venue off Hermitage Road features six restaurant stalls in a food court-type setting.

  • I set out to find out if they are any good.

🍕 Details: I started with the pizza and burger stall — Vinny Smasharino’s — because when I toured the place before it opened, the general manager was extremely enthusiastic about the imported Italian pizza oven.

  • The prosciutto caprese ($16) when I visited was passable, but doughy, over sauced and generally unbefitting of the prestigious oven that baked it.

🥡 On the other hand, the stall’s nightly special — a cheesesteak egg roll ($12) — was a crispy, melty delight.

  • This was unexpected because it sounded sort of gross, and the person who took my order said they had not tried it and made clear they wouldn’t recommend it.
Bao buns and a milk shake. Photos: Ned Oliver/Axios

🍣 It was another mixed bag at the pan-Asian stall next door, Nori Squad.

  • I went for the steamed bao buns ($14 for three). The charred short rib came out chewy and a bit gristly. But the veg option — a deep-fried piece of maitake mushroom — was delicate, with a rich, woodsy flavor.

🍦 My last stop was the ice cream shop, Sweet OG’s, which sells Galati Celeste alongside an array of pastries.

  • I went for one of the signature milkshakes — the coconut caramel crunch ($8). It was over the top and a little on the sweet side, but I loved it, especially the texture of the coconut mixed in.

Of note: There are also stalls that serve fried chicken sandwiches, tacos and bowls.

The bottom line: There’s good food to be had among all the duckpin bowling, mini golf and cocktail bars.

  • Just order carefully.

Get more local stories in your inbox with Axios Richmond.


Support local journalism by becoming a member.

Learn more

More Richmond stories

No stories could be found


Get a free daily digest of the most important news in your backyard with Axios Richmond.


Support local journalism by becoming a member.

Learn more