Raleigh chef's creativity shines with Iftar menu
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The feast included milk-braised lamb shank, crispy potatoes and warm baklava with green cardamom ice cream. Photos: Mary Helen Moore/Axios
Ramadan ends Friday night at sundown, bringing an end to Raleigh restaurant Peregrine's unforgettable nightly Iftar feasts, which I hope the year-old restaurant makes a tradition.
Why it matters: Peregrine chef and co-owner Saif Rahman drew from his Bangladeshi heritage in crafting the multi-course menu.
Zoom in: Ramadan is the Islamic holiday during which much of the Muslim world fasts from dawn to dusk.
- Breaking the fast at sunset is often done with family and friends, and tends to be a joyful communal experience.
What they're saying: "For the last 15 years, I haven't been able to break my fast with my family because I'm always working," Rahman said in an email announcing the special menu.
- "Now in my own restaurant and kitchen, I can share the experience with my guests."
Dig in: Bangladesh is east of India, so I expected South Asian fare, but the food had distinctly Arabic and Persian flavors.
- Displaying his creativity and penchant for creating dishes that feel entirely new, Rahman incorporated Southern ingredients and recipes he picked up while living in New York City.
- The meal was truly a feast — portions large enough for us to carry seconds home.
Best bites: It began with a honeyed date-walnut confection, field pea fritters served with a pleasantly spicy smoked tomato jam, and a plate of warm pita for scooping up beef heart shawarma served over hummus.
- The main course is lamb shank that's been braised in milk, a cooking technique that produced the tenderest lamb I've ever tasted. The knife it's served with is completely unnecessary. The meat falls off the bone in richly flavorful chunks.
- Our favorite sides were the fresh-tasting black-eyed pea fattoush and perfectly crisp potato wedges.
- Delicate cardamom ice cream balanced out the warm baklava for dessert.
It's not in the spirit of Ramadan, but we also tried drinks. Peregrine's beverage director, Zack Thomas, also crafted the menu at Capulet Cocktail Club, a romantic spot that Peregrine's co-owner Patrick Shanahan opened in the same midtown complex.
- For me, La Mirella, a delightful margarita served with black salt.
- For my partner, the Dearly Departed, a bourbon cocktail with chai and orange bitters that's brought to the table enveloped in palo santo smoke.
What's next: The Iftar menu is no longer available, but some of its components show up in different recipes on the regular menu:
- Roasted lamb is served off the bone and with a different flavor profile. Grilled beef heart and crispy potatoes are combined with aji verde and lime for an appetizer. Dates make their way into a barbecued squash side.
If you go: Peregrine is a buzzy spot, so consider making a reservation. It's a semifinalist for a national James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant.
Stop by: It's open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
- 1000 Social Street, Suite 150