At the new Nanas in Durham, an homage to one of the city's culinary icons
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The entrance to the dining room at Nanas. Photo: Lissa Gotwals
Nestled inside the menu of the recently resurrected Durham institution Nanas is a tribute to a culinary landmark: a remake of the twice-baked grits souffle from Ben and Karen Barker's Magnolia Grill.
- Since Magnolia's closed in 2012, the dish had vanished from area menus.
But Matt Kelly, Nanas' new owner and a prominent local chef, was left gobsmacked the first time he tried it and never let its memory go.
- After the first bite of the souffle, he recalled, "I asked, 'How, did you do this?'"
Why it matters: Nanas is picking up a culinary experience that had slowed down in the past decade and completely disappeared from Durham by the start of the pandemic.
- The original Nanas, helmed by chef Scott Howell, along with Magnolia Grill, exemplified the classic, fine-dining American eatery — complete with white tablecloths, local ingredients and European cooking techniques.
- The two restaurants were fixtures of special-occasion dining and both attracted national accolades back when it was unthinkable for Durham to receive such recognition.
State of play: On a recent Thursday evening, Nanas' dining room, decorated with dark carpet and leather or velvet seats, was once again packed like it had been.
- In the corners were couples tucked away in conversation and at large tables groups celebrated a birthday or brought colleagues together over bottles of wine.
- At the bar, a more casual scene was taking place, with regulars and neighbors walking in for a bite to eat or a drink.
Details: The menu hues to the classics, like a shrimp risotto, tender, dry-aged duck and wood-grilled New York strips.
- But creative innovations exist throughout, like intricate pastas filled with pumpkin or oxtail — or starters like grilled oysters topped with a delicious and foamy mixture of green onions and creole seasonings.
- For dessert, a sweet potato split served with tahini soft serve ice cream and salted caramel — flavors this eater had never encountered in combination before.
Yes, and: Kelly is right about the grits souffle, which is cooked with foie gras and topped with mushrooms.
- Both crispy and soft at the same time, the dish is a textural delight — and one you're likely to reach for again and again.
Location: 2514 University Dr., Durham
Hours: 5-10pm, Tuesday through Saturday