Exclusive: With Michelin's Southern expansion, tourism boards made restaurant recommendations
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Michelin recognition Is game-changing for restaurants that receive the honor. Photo: Jakub Porzycki/NurPhoto via Getty Images
Cities and states across the South will collectively pitch in $1.65 million a year in a three-year contract bringing the Michelin Guide to the region, according to records obtained by Axios New Orleans.
Why it matters: The agreements shed light on what it took for the prestigious travel adviser to consider expanding, as well as what kind of influence the state marketing agencies have over which restaurants Michelin might consider for recognition.
The big picture: Michelin's expansion into the U.S. has come about as tourism agencies are coughing up cash for the honor of being considered among the food world's best and brightest, the New York Times reported in 2023.
- Some agencies have seen the value in it, such as with Michelin's expansion last year into Texas, which Eater reported came at a cost of $2.7 million over three years.
- But others have declined the expense. Virginia, for example, said no to being part of the American South expansion, Axios' Karri Peifer reports, citing the cost.
Zoom in: Michelin's $1.65 million entrance into the South includes $350,000 per year from Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina and Tennessee, and $125,000 annually from Mississippi and Alabama, according to the documents, which Axios New Orleans received after a public records request through the Louisiana Office of Tourism.
- Louisiana's first payment was due April 1, according to an agreement in the documents. The three-year contract between the tourism office and Travel South runs through 2028.
- Michelin also shared a slide deck with participants warning about "sticky" questions they may receive, reminding them not to share financial details with the public. "Prohibited," one chart reads: "Any specific budget breakdown by activity. On the other hand, you can reveal what this partnership will achieve globally and objectives of your organization."
- Multiple references are also made to NDAs for those involved.
Behind the scenes: The terms of the deal required a route through Travel South USA, a regional marketing agency, which contracted with Michelin.
- Then, Travel South USA subcontracted with agencies across each of the states, including city partners, to pool the funds.
The documents include emails exchanged between Michelin staffers and tourism officials across the involved states.
- Some make reference to the push and pull among tourism agencies.
- "A few states are concerned they wouldn't get any recognition and are reluctant to commit," writes Travel South USA CEO Liz Bittner in one thread. "Atlanta likes being alone in the South – and mentioned that they don't think Michelin doesn't (sic) have enough inspectors to cover the entire region – that being said – (Atlanta Convention and Visitors Bureau president) William Pate also recognizes that this is probably going to happen – so he is willing to find a win-win."
- Full state buy-in was required, the emails show, because Michelin would no longer consider single-city expansion, as it did for Atlanta.
The intrigue: The process for restaurants to obtain Michelin stars is a closely guarded secret, but one email references how tourism agencies can offer a bit of an edge.
- In preparing for the initial announcement about Michelin heading to the South, Bittner held a meeting with state representatives. That meeting's agenda included discussion of a "requested list of restaurants for consideration," which was due Feb. 14, about a month and a half before the announcement.
- "As you put the lists for consideration together," Bittner directed in a follow-up, "think about quality over quantity … beyond the white tablecloth … awarded chefs such as Top 50 lists or James Beard or local awards … Rising chefs with profile in the community (and) chefs/restaurants that highlight the local agriculture, farming or sustainable seafood production."
- In a statement Tuesday, Bittner said, the tourism agencies "have no control over the content of the selection or its recommendations. In fact, we all learn of the selected restaurants at the same time as the media and chefs – at the Michelin Guide Ceremony. There is no preferential treatment or guarantees given to the (destination marketing organization) in the partnership."
In one slide deck image, which a Michelin staffer seems hesitant to use in presentations to state representatives, a map shows states across the South in varying shades of blue.
- The colors emphasize each state's "culinary maturity," a key standard for determining whether the guide enters a market, the New York Times has reported.
- Notably, Georgia remains a lighter shade of blue than Louisiana. Michelin entered the Atlanta market in 2023.
What's next: Michelin will hold a ceremony to honor Southern restaurants newly included in its guide in October, the documents say.