2025 in review: Jake Howell brings James Beard glory back to Nashville
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Jake Howell is an award-winning chef. But he says the focus should be on the food, not him. Photo: Jeff Schear/Getty Images for James Beard Foundation
The day after chef Jake Howell came home from winning a coveted James Beard Award this year, he was back in East Nashville scrubbing the bathroom at his restaurant Peninsula.
Why it matters: Howell's prize is the equivalent of a culinary Oscar, but he didn't spend much time at the after party.
- His rapid return to work reflects the mission statement of the tiny restaurant with a big reputation.
What he's saying: "I never wanted to have a restaurant where the intention was for people to think about me," he tells Axios. "I just wanted to have a restaurant where we cook food for people."
State of plate: Howell approaches his menu with surgical precision, but he rejects much of the pretense that typically comes along with fine dining.
Humility was built into Peninsula's DNA. It's super-small footprint (38 seats, just one six-eye stove in the kitchen) doesn't leave any room for unnecessary flourishes.
Yes, but: The Spanish-inspired food is far from pedestrian. Condé Nast Traveler recommended the restaurant for adventurous eaters and singled out braised rabbit and a blood sausage crepe from the ever-changing menu.
🎨 Fun fact: Before he found his way to the kitchen, Howell worked as a painter. But after he turned to restaurant jobs to support his painting, he realized a new passion.
- "I think this is the job I was supposed to be doing," he says, "because anytime I did other stuff, it just didn't feel right."
Flashback: Howell and his fellow co-owners were initially based in Seattle, but they picked Nashville for their joint venture.
- When Howell came here in 2016, his only exposure to the city was the Robert Altman movie. But he says the city's real-life energy and community won him over.
Zoom out: Nashville has developed a thriving hub of upscale restaurants over the last couple of decades, but James Beard Awards have remained hard to come by.
- Howell was the first Nashville chef to break through since Tandy Wilson of City House won the same award in 2016.
The intrigue: The Michelin Guide doubled down on the praise last month, including Peninsula as one of its inaugural selections from Nashville.
- Peninsula was recognized as a Bib Gourmand restaurant offering high-quality cooking at a good value.
- "Buckle up for plates powered by character that take unexpected twists and turns," the Michelin Guide reads.
The bottom line: Howell says he and his tight-knit team of about 11 people have tried not to think too much about the accolades.
- "I just want people to come here and experience it in their own way," he says. "It's not that serious. We just want y'all to have a good time."
What's next: The Peninsula team is weeks away from opening a new bar concept in the Neuhoff District development in Germantown.
- "2025 has been great for us," Howell says. "It has also been a year of trying to figure out how to get better.
- "Our main focus is trying to keep the momentum going into next year."