Metsi's joins a crowded Columbus Italian scene
Add Axios as your preferred source to
see more of our stories on Google.
The osso bucco was a standout at the preview of Metsi's, BJ Lieberman's new Italian concept. Photos: Andrew King/Axios
Our dining scene is getting another upscale Italian option — can it separate itself from the pack?
Dining the news: Last week, chef BJ Lieberman gave Columbus a sneak peek of his new concept, Metsi's, a "wood-fired Italian" restaurant in the Short North.
- Lieberman is a James Beard nominee and one of our most visible chefs, helming Chapman's Eat Market and Ginger Rabbit.
The intrigue: He also opened Hiraeth, a short-lived fine dining concept at 36 E. Lincoln St. centered around its wood-fired oven.
- A year after Hiraeth closed, Metsi's is taking over the space.
Yes, but: Chapman's hosted the preview, so we can't report on the vibes.
What I ate: A six-course prix fixe menu ($75).
- The meal started with sourdough focaccia with a whipped ricotta dip and a Caesar salad.
- For mains, guests shared two "dueling pastas" — cacio e pepe and amatriciana — and individually portioned osso bucco with polenta.
- For dessert: tiramisu.
Best bites: Everything was tasty, but at this price point, I was slightly disappointed to be more excited by the starters than the pastas at an Italian restaurant.
- The osso bucco, however, was fantastic and probably my highlight.
- And they made a killer tiramisu.
The big picture: Metsi's joins a crowded Central Ohio Italian scene.
- Columbus loves classics like Martini, Moretti's, Marcella's and Basi, as well as newer options like Speck, Cento and Pelino's.
💭 My thought bubble: During its short life, Hiraeth was easily my favorite Columbus restaurant.
- This meal didn't quite reach that level of special.
- I hope the full Metsi's experience can capture some of that same charm.
📆 What's next: Metsi's aims to open in June.
🌎 Worthy of your time: This trip was part of our Eating Around the World series. See the other international foods we've mapped so far.