A visit to Atlanta's Big Boss Chinese

If you’re looking for a creative take on the Chinese American food that has played a fascinating role in the country's culture and cuisine, head to Big Boss Chinese on 10th Street.

Why it matters: Late last year, celebrated chef Guy Wong opened Big Boss Chinese, his long-awaited interpretation of Chinese American food, in the same Midtown restaurant space where his mother owned and operated Chinese Buddha.

The menu: Classic Chinese, from General Tso’s to Lo Mein, with sides like no-frills egg rolls, potstickers or spicy wonton dumplings, and crab rangoon and hot and sour soup.

• Every classic dish can be served vegetarian as well. I opted for extra spicy vegetarian General Tso’s chicken and was delighted by the crispiness and the just-right mix of flavors and sauce.

The vibe: Man, what a vibe. Sam Worley of Atlanta Magazine said Big Boss’ “alien-green fluorescent lights, its mirrored walls, and its plastic banquettes” make the Elizabeth Ingram-designed dining room feel like a “mall food court by way of 'Stranger Things.'” That's very apt!

• For me, I kept seeing a classic Chinese diner on a side street in the "Blade Runner" universe.

The verdict: Loved it. Probably gonna order it tonight.