Food critic Tom Sietsema dishes on D.C.'s food scene

Driving the news: Sietsema's #1 is surprising some, beating out the more hyped and expensive names that often top best lists. Chicatana, a Mexican restaurant that just moved to roomier digs in Columbia Heights, is a first-time "Restaurant of the Year."

• The Guerrero-born chef started as a dishwasher, trained at spots like Oyamel and then struck out independently (the Mexican ambassador is a big fan).
• "You know you're walking into somewhere good when someone welcomes you from a tiny kitchen and offers you mezcal," Sietsema tells Axios. "I love celebrating places where the chefs and owners are quietly going about their jobs and might need a little recognition."

Zoom in: Sietsema ranked the top five, with Albi (two), Centrolina (three), Caruso's Grocery (four) and stalwart Indian spot Bombay Club (five).

• "There's always focus on new, and it's important to remember places that have been around and stood the test time," he says.

Behind the scenes: Sietsema dines out at 130-odd places a year, and spent 90 days dining out for the guide. Plus, he reviewed 24 years' worth of note-lined calendars he stashes in boxes to recall past meals.

• "If someone asks, 'Tom, where did you dine out in September 2002 and with who?' I can tell them!"

Secret to success: "I go out to eat with a lot of people who don't look like me — younger, older, Black, Asian, starving artists, White House people, my Uber drivers when we've had great conversations," Sietsema tells Axios.

• "The last people I want to eat with are other food people. I don't want their opinions in my head."

The intrigue: Disguises. Sietsema's a rare critic who "zealously guards" his anonymity, even as notables around the country dropped their masks. He's worn faux mustaches (one melted off with steamy soup), given fake names and friend's credit cards, and even jumped out of family photos "when I don't trust a cousin."

• And yes, some industry folks still claim to know what he looks like.

What he's saying: "Even my partner sometimes says, 'They know, c'mon,'" Sietsema tells Axios. "But it's important to try. They may know, but they might not notice me every visit. Unlike a book reviewer where you can't change the ending, they can make a lot of things really sweet when they know the critic's taste."

• Plus, Sietsema says he knows when they know — no points there.

Between the lines: He sometimes puts more time into (rare) zero-star takedowns than raves. Remember that goose egg for Founding Farmers years ago? "I went seven times because I wanted to be super thorough," says Sietsema. Usually, it's 3-4 visits, always funded by the Post.

• "I'm not going after a mom and pop, what's the point?" he says. "If it's a big, expensive place, it's fair game."

Hot take: He doesn't mind service fees — mostly. "When people charge 20% I want to know where it's going, and I don't want to add something unless you fixed the tire on my car while I was there," he says.

• "What bothers me are tiny fees, 1 or 3%. Do I tip on top? When a professional reviewer has problems with this, you know an occasional diner will."

The bottom line: Sietsema knows dining out on the Post's dime is fortunate, and going out is a luxury — especially now. "Prices have shot up everywhere, even at the grocery store," says Sietsema.

• "That's when critics become important. Wouldn't you rather have the Washington Post give these places a taste drive ahead of you going in?"