A roadmap to San Diego's growing food scene
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Illustration: Annelise Capossela/Axios
San Diego hasn't always been a great food city, says San Diego Magazine critic Troy Johnson. But now, it's arrived at that bleeding edge of being the country's newest and next big food scene — where the most excitement and culinary growth happen.
Why it matters: Restaurants tend to reflect the people in a city, and San Diego is cultivating talented chefs, culturally diverse concepts and sustainably sourced dishes that are keeping it on the cusp of being a top food destination.
Zoom in: The local food scene is growing rapidly as more restaurants are opening, chefs are delivering and people are craving social connection around a table, Johnson told Axios.
- Yes, but: The local industry hasn't bounced back to pre-pandemic levels like it has nationally.
Between the lines: San Diego restaurants are either going big by investing into the experience with over-the-top design to create a scene (think Lafayette Hotel) or streamlining their operations to counterservice (like It's Raw Poke Shop).
- Rising food, rent and labor costs squeezed out the middle ground of sit-down neighborhood bistros.
- Fast-casual spots are on the rise, but they're more creative, innovative and have better food than ever before, Johnson said.
Driving the news: San Diego Magazine recently released its Best Restaurants of 2024 issue that's "a butter-drenched bible to our sizzling dining scene, bursting with all the bites, sips, chefs, and trends."
- It features critic and reader picks for everything from upscale, Michelin-recognized restaurants (Callie) to hole-in-the-wall birria spots (Ed Fernandez) and the best Filipino food in the city (Lia's Lumpia).
Fun fact: When Johnson and his wife took over the magazine in 2021, he proposed getting rid of this beloved issue.
- He admits that would've been a huge mistake, because everybody keeps this list in their pocket for tailored recommendations when somebody comes into town.
Dig in: Wolf in the Woods in Mission Hills was named restaurant of the year.
- The European-inspired wine bar and tapas cafe "feels more like home than my own home," Johnson said.
- The sweet corn-and-piñon soup is one of the best things he's ever tasted.
What we're watching: This year, North Park finally made good on its promise to be San Diego's next culinary epicenter, Johnson said.
- Chef Brad Wise is opening a French brasserie, Leila is a new Middle Eastern concept, and coming soon is 31ThirtyOne by Drew Deckman, whose work at a restaurant in Germany years ago helped it win a Michelin star.
- More omakase sushi spots like Kinme are popping up because diners trust chef selections.
- And La Jolla is "waking up again" with hotspots like Marisi and the highly anticipated French concept by chef Travis Swikard.
Editor's note: This story has been updated to correct an account of Troy Johnson's thoughts on San Diego's status as a food city, and a Michelin star-related reference to chef Drew Deckman.