This week's New Orleans gumbo: Li'l Dizzy's

The gumbo is a bit of a surf-and-turf mix with ham, crab and andouille. The flavors are perfectly balanced, and I found myself slurping up the broth by drinking straight out of the Styrofoam container it comes in.

Of note: Li'l Dizzy's is only open for lunch, and you'll find yourself wedged in a crowd of locals and visitors alike.

• You may have to stick out a wait, but the daily specials — like red beans and rice and, if you're lucky, trout Baquet — are worth the effort.