Gumbo of the week in New Orleans: Gris-Gris

Since 2018, Gris-Gris has been a Lower Garden District neighborhood staple, but it quickly got a reputation far beyond that for chef Eric Cook's locally-flavored cooking.

My order: A cup of chicken and andouille gumbo ($6).

• The menu is full of stick-to-your-ribs Cajun and Creole dishes, like chicken gizzard grillades and oyster pie.

The gumbo was dark and richly-flavored, but nothing fancy, and I mean that in the best possible way. The only veggies here were the trinity, cooked down to almost nothing, and each spoonful offers a slow-burn heat perfect for chasing away a cold — or a hangover.

Worth noting: Cook also operates Saint John in the French Quarter, where gumbo is also on the menu.