Savory cocktails shake up Metro Detroit
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Ides of March at Grey Ghost (left) and the Salsa 'Rita at Balam Coffee & Wine. Photos: Perry Haselden, courtesy of Grey Ghost (left) and Balam/Daniel Oliva
Picture this: You walk into a cocktail bar, order a cute cocktail, take a sip and taste … Cheetos?
Why it matters: Savory cocktails have been gaining popularity in recent years.
- Inventive mixologists are turning more and more to creative, complex ingredients traditionally associated with food to build spicy and umami-forward drinks.
State of play: Interest in salty drinks follows trending passions for food condiments like chili crisp and hot honey — and then there's also America's obsession with pickle juice.
- Flavors can be striking and bold, offering something unique to latch onto.
Yes, but: Savory cocktails are in the spotlight, but the concept is nothing new. We've forever been ordering Bloody Marys, dirty martinis and spicy margaritas.
- And who could forget the classic 1950s Detroit Bullshot with beef bouillon.
What they're saying: "In the past, everybody was always looking for boozy or citrusy and refreshing," says Max Schikora, bar manager of Echelon Kitchen & Bar and Hunã in Ann Arbor.
- Now, he says, interest in savory options is being driven in part by the resurgence of the dirty martini.
- It's a fun, recent trend in cocktail bars to use salty culinary ingredients in strange and creative ways to evoke new flavors — say, using a fat-washing technique to impart Wagyu beef into an old-fashioned, Schikora adds.
Plus, consumers are feeling done with chains and the same old drinks, says Kimi Clore, general manager of Balam Coffee & Wine.
- The Ferndale cafe, bar and eatery draws from Mexican and Mayan influences and is owned by the team behind restaurant and bar Mezcal.
- Balam's Salsa Rita is a take on a clarified margarita, infused with salsa and rimmed with toasted tortilla chips and salt.
- "It's weird in the best way," Clore says. "At first, when people kind of read it [on the menu], they're intrigued, but a little scared, almost. But we encourage it … and it just kind of blows everyone out of the water."
Some options for creative, savory cocktails in southeast Michigan:
Sugar House in Corktown: Funy Mary ($15), with Funyon-infused Wheatley, house bloody mary mix and lime.
- Better Made Martini ($15), with potato chip-infused dry vermouth, plus vodka, gin, aquavit, vinegar and salt.
- Flamin' Hot ($17), with Flamin' Hot Cheetos syrup, mezcal, ancho chile liqueur, tequila, lime and habanero bitters.
Standby downtown: Chingona ($18), described as smoky, spicy and savory with mezcal, tequila, sherry, mole, mango and pickled onion.
Motor City Gas in Royal Oak: Bánh mì-tini ($15), with sesame vodka, cilantro, carrot and red pepper syrup and house dry vermouth.
The Black Salt Bar in Hamtramck: Birth by Fire ($15), with curry-infused anejo rum, dark rum, basil eau de vie, falernum, coconut and citrus.
The Congregation near Boston Edison: Umami Vice ($10), described as savory and complex with vodka, shochu, miso, ginger, tamari (like soy sauce) and dry vermouth.
Grey Ghost in Midtown: Ides of March, with gin, dry vermouth, Caesar, parmesan, Worcestershire, sesame oil and lemon.
Old Pony Martini Pub in Grosse Pointe: Big Dill, with gin, vermouth and pickle juice.
The Oakland in Ferndale: Absolutely Filthy Clean, with gorgonzola-infused vodka, olive brine rinse and red onion oil droplets.
- Beets Me, with gin, pickled beet brine and aquavit rinse.
- Tequila Truckstop, with Slim Jim-infused tequila, mole bitters and a Cheeto dust salt rim.
The Last Word in Ann Arbor: Gazpacho Libre ($19), with Long Road Asparagin (a spirit made with Michigan asparagus), aquavit, kummel liquor, lemon, tomato water, strawberry balsamic, cucumber, basil and jalapeno.