Feb 20, 2024 - Food and Drink

Freya does vegetables (and Bugles) right

crusted swordfish served with sauce and herbs.

Yakitori swordfish from Freya with Bugles, togarashi, chili aioli, fresno and chili. Photo: Annalise Frank/Axios

👋 Annalise here. Bugles are now considered high-end foodstuffs — or at least they are at Freya, the upscale Milwaukee Junction restaurant that honored one of my beloved childhood snacks by using it as a crust on yakitori-grilled swordfish.

What happened: I recently tried the James Beard semifinalist chef's tasting menu, and if you're looking for a place that does vegetables justice, look no further.

Details: A dish simply named "grilled cauliflower" exploded with smoky grilled flavor, paired simply with herbs, almond and romesco tomato sauce. I can honestly say I've never had better cauliflower in my life.

  • A kabocha squash served floating in curry was perfectly sweet, salty, charred and crunchy with maple peanuts, a hint of lime and heat from chili crisp.
  • Several of the dishes featured black garlic, which is generally aged several weeks for a deeper flavor.
Squash that's charred and covered in herbs sitting in orange curry.
Kabocha squash with red curry, chili crisp, scallion, maple peanuts and lime.

If you go: Don't take the price lightly — our dinner for a special occasion was $95 a person.

  • Reservations Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9:30pm
  • 2929 E. Grand Boulevard

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