The Iowa State Fair's last church food stand celebrates 75 years
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People stop for breakfast prior to the start of the Iowa State Fair on Aug. 6, 2024. Photo: Courtesy of Eric Burson
In the middle of the deep-fried, gluttonous world of the Iowa State Fair, a single church fair vendor is celebrating its 75th year of serving simple meals and coffee.
Why it matters: The biggest and priciest vendors get a lot of today's viral fanfare, but the West Des Moines United Methodist Church's volunteer operation stands as a testament to building community again and again, despite a changing congregation.
How it started: Since opening in 1949, there have been a lot of changes, says Ken Ferguson, a congregant who helps lead the effort.
- Back then, church stands were abundant at the fair and featured younger congregations bustling with volunteers.
- Over time, those stands dwindled as people aged and operations became harder — leaving just the West Des Moines United's stand, Ferguson says.
Zoom in: Today, running the stand requires filling over 300 volunteer shifts — a feat that's becoming increasingly difficult, especially for the more physical, eight-hour shifts, Ferguson says.
- In 2019, organizers started reaching out to other churches to help fill spots. In exchange, West Des Moines United donates toward volunteers' mission trips: $50 for four-hour shifts, $75 for six-hour ones and $100 for eight-hour shifts.
- Some who can't endure the long hours and heat help with other tasks like washing dishes and laundering aprons and towels, Ferguson says.
- And while church ladies don't make the pies anymore, volunteers get up early to pick them up from Village Inn for slicing and packaging.
Reality check: In 2024, 49% of Iowans said they rarely or seldom attended a service.
The intrigue: The church has always tried to keep fair food as affordable as possible, Ferguson says.
- The most expensive thing on the menu is $12 — a beef burger, chips and drink combo. The $2 coffees are popular, as well as the $6 biscuits and gravy in the mornings.
- The biggest price jump came in 2022 when prices rose dramatically across the U.S. The stand didn't raise anything last year and this year had some good news — Sam's Club gravy was $2 cheaper.
- "It's supposed to be a fun place," Ferguson says. "We have families that'll come in — mom and dad, maybe four or five kids. That's a lot of money."
What they're saying: Jeff Loyd of Winfield stopped by Tuesday morning as volunteers served breakfast for 4-H families who arrived to the fair early.
- "It's a staple every fair to stop here for breakfast," Loyd says.
What's next: Ferguson, who is 80, plans on stepping down from his leadership role with the fair stand after this year.
- But don't worry — he says he's been in conversation with a couple of people who recently retired from their jobs and can take up the mantle.