Columbites: Creative food and wood-fired ambiance at Metsi's
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Photo: Courtesy Metsi's Wood-Fired Italian
After four months in the Short North, BJ Lieberman says his new wood-fired Italian concept Metsi's is hitting its stride.
The verdict: After previewing the menu this spring, I agree.
- This isn't just another Italian restaurant, and it's a worthy successor to the Hiraeth space it took over.
The vibe: During its short life, Hiraeth's unmatched ambiance made it the go-to "special occasion" spot for my wife and I, so we gave the new tenant a shot for our wedding anniversary.
- The atmosphere still feels special, thanks to a beautiful space, top-notch service and the unique feel of a wood fire burning in the open kitchen.
Best bites: The antipasti menu is full of hits.
- We loved the sourdough focaccia with whipped ricotta ($9), beef carpaccio ($14) and mushroom arancini ($14).
- Agnolotti ai mare ($30), ravioli-esque stuffed pasta with a seafood broth, was the standout main course.
🥃 Plus: The cocktail menu features a variety of excellent negronis.
💭 My thought bubble: The "Italian" branding is fair enough, but Metsi's is more interesting and complex than sauce and noodles.
- It's easy to see the Chapman's and Hiraeth DNA in its food.
Stop by: Wednesday-Sunday, 36 E. Lincoln St. Hours. Menu.
🌎 Worthy of your time: This trip was part of our Eating Around the World series. Check out the other international foods we've mapped so far.