An upscale lunch at Gordon Ramsay Burger in Haymarket

The concept behind Gordon Ramsay Burger in Haymarket is as simple as its name: upscale burgers designed by the hot-headed restaurateur and king of food TV.

• It's good, but the prices will keep locals away.

The flagship Hell's Kitchen burger has mozzarella, roasted jalapeños and avocado for $19.

Other burgers range from $16 to $24.

• A side of fries will cost another $6. My solo check with no drink was for $26.75.
• There are shakes, salads and a few other shareables on Ramsay's classic American menu.

Of course it was cooked exactly medium rare. We know what happens when Ramsay's cooks screw that up.

The bottom line: The prices, touristy clientele and generic setting give Gordon Ramsay Burger all the charm of the airport without being at the airport.

Deehan's thought bubble: For a burger in that part of town go to Pauli's in the North End ($7.99) or Saus ($12) on Union Street. For a drink, go across the street to Durty Nelly's (priceless).

For a better Ramsay experience — for around the same prices — check out the chef's real restaurant in the Back Bay.