Taiwan's flavors get a playful new spotlight
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A new book by Bay Area natives invites Taiwanese food lovers to learn more about the history behind their favorite dishes.
Why it matters: Taiwanese food has exploded in popularity in the U.S. in recent decades, with much of the boom tracing back to the Bay Area. Yet the cuisine's cultural traditions and legacies sometimes remain unfamiliar to American eaters.
Driving the news: "A Very Asian Guide to Taiwanese Food," written by Nancy Jeng and illustrated by Felicia Liang, dives into both classic and modern Taiwanese foods while detailing their origins and highlighting other cultural tidbits.
- One page tells the lore of stinky tofu, which legend has it became a dish after a shop owner discovered a forgotten supply of fermented tofu. Another entry explores the decadent foods that make up a typical Taiwanese breakfast.
- Boba makes an appearance, of course.
- The book, the seventh entry in the "A Very Asian Guide" series, also includes kid-friendly recipes, for families who want to try their hand at re-creating their favorites.
What they're saying: "Taiwan has a lot of potential to have an outsized impact in culture and food ... and I think we're seeing that more and more," Jeng told Axios.
- But much of that has historically flown "under the radar," she said. "Seeing more and more of the dishes that come from Taiwan being recognized as such and being able to shine a light on that is really huge and gives me a lot of pride."
- "I always think the food, like the ingredients and how they use it, is really, really special," Liang added. "So I hope this brings about the curiosity to learn more about the country ... and that people who are Taiwanese, especially parents, can impart that pride with kids."
Zoom out: The Bay Area has served as a launching pad for a lot of Taiwanese foods in America.
- Bubble/boba tea is arguably the most prominent, first offered here in the mid-1990s and now firmly in the mainstream, with big chains like Starbucks offering their own "boba-inspired" drinks. (I have many thoughts on that.)
- Jeng lists San Francisco's Piglet & Co. as a favorite for modern takes on classic Taiwanese dishes, while Liang's go-to are Liang Village in Cupertino and Good to Eat in Emeryville.
- As a child wanting to fit in, "I didn't always appreciate that part of my background or the food even as much as I do now," Jeng noted. "We're really lucky to grow up here with such a strong Taiwanese diaspora."
The big picture: Taiwanese immigration to the U.S. began primarily after World War II and increased after the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965 abolished America's quota system.
- Many first landed on the West Coast in pursuit of better educational and economic opportunities.
- Today, 45% of America's Taiwanese population lives in California, with San José home to the third largest Taiwanese population among metropolitan areas, according to Pew Research Center.
What's next: The book goes on sale Sept. 16 for $19.95.