The New Orleans gumbo you can only get once a year
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Dooky Chase's is a New Orleans institution, especially on Holy Thursday.
Why it matters: It's the only day of the year to get chef Leah Chase's gumbo z'herbes, a dish steeped in faith and New Orleans tradition.
The big picture: Creoles traditionally prepared gumbo z'herbes on Maundy or Holy Thursday as the last big meal with meat before Easter, according to the Chase family, which owns the restaurant.
- The dish blends greens and pork, with the superstition that each green brings you a new friend.
- The number of greens must be uneven.
- Leah Chase's recipe uses nine greens — mustard, collard, red Swiss chard, beet tops, cabbage, carrot tops, spinach, kale and watercress.
Zoom in: Chase died in 2019, but her family carries on the tradition. This year, her grandson, Edgar "Dook" Chase IV, and her great-granddaughter, Zoe Chase, prepared the gumbo.
- It's served in a large bowl with a scoop of rice. Diners pair it with the restaurant's famous fried chicken and cornbread muffins.
- The gumbo is exceptional, with a nice bit of heat at the end. There's hot sauce on the table if you want more kick.
- Homemade pecan pie, bread pudding and peach cobbler finished the meal.
Inside the room: Former Gov. John Bel Edwards sat next to Mayor Helena Moreno in the packed dining room.
- The atmosphere was festive. Not quite the Friday before Mardi Gras, but it felt like a party with diners mingling and table-hopping.
- Stella Chase Reese, the daughter of Leah Chase, Dook Chase and more family members greeted and hugged just about every diner.
- Rev. Ajani Gibson from St. Peter Claver and newly installed Archbishop James Checchio offered blessings at the sold-out meals.
💠My thought bubble: John Pope, the longtime obituary writer at The Times-Picayune, has organized a Holy Thursday table for 20+ years.
- This year, I finally scored a seat. His table is packed with journalists, community leaders, business owners and just downright fun folks.
- We cut up the whole time. It was everything I'd hoped for and more for this New Orleans Easter tradition.
The bottom line: Add it your New Orleans bucket list.
Editor's note: This story has been corrected to reflect that Rev. Ajani Gibson from St. Peter Claver (not a priest from St. Ann) gave the blessing Thursday.