Maty’s surpasses expectations

The appetizer: We started with the tortitas, or corn fritters, which come with seasonal pickles ($18).

• We overlooked these at first, but our waiter told us we were wrong. He was right.

The food: We ordered the kanpachi ($24), which was light, tangy and topped with a potato chip, and the scallop cebiche ($28), which prompted a swear word upon first bite. The beautiful green sauce has a spicy kick.

• The gem lettuces ($16) seem simple, but they are anything but, thanks to the healthy dose of goat gouda sprinkled on top.
• The charred corn ($16) was giving macaroni and cheese in the best, most comforting way. This dish also prompted a swear word.

But the star was the dorade ($72), presented atop an aji amarillo beurre blanc sauce.

• We finished off the meal with the picarones ($14).

Bottom line: Maty's is easily one of the best meals I've had in Miami. There, I said it!

• With one cocktail and seven dishes, the meal came out to well over $200.