Kansas City barbecue lives up to the hype — and then some

The big picture: Barbecue is regional identity on a plate — Texas brisket, Carolina whole hog, Memphis ribs. Everybody has a claim.

• Last summer, I visited Worth Sparkman of Axios Northwest Arkansas, who added NWA to the chat, but their style seems to be a mix of everyone else.

Yes, and: I love barbecue almost as much as chicken wings. In fact, I'm a sucker for a well-smoked wing.

Zoom in: I also have an affinity for history, and it's not lost on me that Kansas City barbecue traces back to Henry Perry, a Black pitmaster who laid the foundation for the city's style.

Between the lines: The Axios Kansas City crew knew expectations were high — and yes, this was a company-sponsored meal — so we headed to Jack Stack Barbecue. (They knew what they were doing.)

What I ordered: The two-meat platter, with smoky and tender pork ribs and burnt ends — what Travis calls "meat marshmallows."

• The sides: roasted garlic broccoli and a cheesy potato bake.

The verdict: The burnt ends are the headline — rich, caramelized and soft enough to fall apart without a fight.

• The ribs hold their own. The sauce hits — thick, slightly sweet with just enough tang. The sides don't feel like an afterthought.

The bottom line: I've had barbecue in many places, and even my inner-hater came away with the same conclusion. This was the best I've ever had.

• My only regret: Not having enough time to try the spots locals swear by.