Triton Rail Splitter delivers IPA nostalgia

• But the first Triton beer I tried when checking out their taproom more than a decade ago is the one that keeps me coming back.

Brew of the week: Rail Splitter is the Triton flagship. It's the IPA standard. The main character. And like any good protagonist, it always gets the job done.

• 7% ABV and 70 IBU.
• Citrus and floral notes you can't miss balanced with a dry finish.

My take: The IPA category has been poked, prodded and experimented with so much that the phrase "I like IPAs" does little to explain what you mean.

• But when I say I like IPAs, THIS is what I mean. Impactful and hoppy without needing to resort to palate-blasting bitterness to be memorable.

Zoom in: A benefit of Rail Splitter's straightforward approach to IPAs is how well it pairs with food.

• It's a beer you're glad to reach for between bites of your burger because it knows when to relax and let other flavors take the spotlight.

If you go: 5764 Wheeler Road.

• Open 3-10pm Wednesday and Thursday; 12-10pm Friday and Saturday; and 12-9pm Sunday.