Latin King owner wants to "shine up the crown jewel" again
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Matthew McCartney, an operating partner at Latin King. Photo: Angela Schirm
Latin King — a Des Moines east side institution — is getting the return of a local owner who vows to bring the restaurant back to its roots.
The big picture: "I can't replace Bob Tursi, but I'm probably the only one in this town that can get close," says Matthew McCartney, a new operating partner and owner at Latin King.
Flashback: The traditional Italian restaurant has gone through three owners since it first opened in 1947 — Jim and Rose Pigneri, Bob Tursi and, in 2021, Kansas City-based W. VinZant, which also owns Fresco and Louie's Wine Dive.
How it started: McCartney says he was at Latin King under Tursi from 2011 to 2021, going from sommelier to part-owner over his tenure.
- After the restaurant was sold to W. VinZant, he left to work for Fleming's Steakhouse in West Des Moines and traveled regionally and nationally for the company.
- But when the opportunity came to buy into Latin King as an operating partner, McCartney jumped in, especially since he wanted to stay closer to home.
What they're saying: Tursi owned the restaurant for 40 years, and after the sale, McCartney acknowledges the restaurant had a difficult transition, with some customers leaving online reviews about changes in quality.
- But he says that's why he's back and committed to returning it to its glory. Since returning in December, he's deep-cleaned the restaurant, shining "every crystal" on the lobby chandelier. He also touches every table and is working to maintain the blue-collar, neighborly feel of the restaurant.
- "It's the crown jewel of the east side," McCartney says. "We just got to get back and polish it up and get it back to what it was."
Zoom out: He joins a slew of other young restaurateurs dedicated to giving new life to beloved establishments, like Anna Suttie at Maxie's and Carter Annett at Jesse's Embers.
If you go: 11am-2pm and 4-9pm Tuesday-Thursday; 11am-2pm and 4-10pm Friday; Noon-10pm, Saturday.
- 2200 Hubbell Ave., Des Moines.