Two Twelve in Crested Butte goes beyond ordinary fine dining

Three dishes into dinner at Two Twelve in Crested Butte, chef Anthony Nelson makes an obvious declaration: "I hope you know by now, I don't do anything the way it should be done."

Why it matters: His mantra is evident on the plate, and makes the Elk Avenue restaurant a culinary destination in the Colorado mountains.

The vibe: The farm-to-table, live-fire restaurant — the latest from local restaurant mogul Kyleena Falzone of Secret Stash and Bonez — features modern decor with a stunning emerald-colored dangling pendant and a casual, yet fine dining mood.

Dig in: The all-Columbian kitchen team is willing to push beyond the ordinary — starting with a can't-miss buffalo arepas, a recipe borrowed from the sous chef's mother.

• Other inventive dishes on a recent visit included an elk half rack in a huckleberry foie emulsion, black angus filet in "love sauce" (fish sauce, Worcestershire, beef tallow and chicken stock), and a crispy potato salad.

Between the lines: You won't find a Michelin recommendation on the door — it's a pay-to-play game that doesn't include Crested Butte yet — but Nelson isn't shy about his desire for a James Beard nomination, which, I'll say, is deserved.

The big picture: Two Twelve exemplifies how Crested Butte's dining scene is becoming more elevated.

• Two other restaurants — the laid-back but fine-tuned, farm-to-table Sunflower and the from-scratch sourdough and vegetable-forward eatery and bakehouse Breadery — are making the town worthy of a culinary journey.