Alma Fonda Fina's sister restaurant Cozobi Fonda Fina shines in Boulder

• The restaurant is named after Cozobi, the Zapotec god of corn — a fitting tribute for a menu that honors ancient masa-making traditions.

The vibe: While Alma Fonda Fina leans into contemporary Mexican dishes with a more experimental flair, Cozobi takes a classical approach that celebrates centuries-old techniques.

• Boulder's version is also more laid-back but still embraces that cozy, earthy charm shared by its Denver sibling.

Zoom in: The two restaurants share a few fan favorites, like the irresistible camote asado — an agave-roasted sweet potato served atop a pillowy bed of fennel-flavored, ricotta-like cheese.

• Another standout featured on both menus is the taco mole verde filled with tender pork carnitas that melt in your mouth.

If you go: Cozobi Fonda Fina is dishing out delights at 909 Walnut St. in Boulder.

The bottom line: It's well worth the trip.