Alma Fonda Fina brings upscale Mexican cuisine to LoHi
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The aguachile de chile fresno at Alma Fonda Fina. Photo: Esteban L. Hernandez/Axios
Chef Johnny Curiel grew up around his father's restaurants across Colorado. At age 14, he decided to take up the family craft.
Details: Curiel didn't cook at first — his father made him start out by washing dishes — but looking around his new restaurant, Alma Fonda Fina in Denver's Highland neighborhood, it sure seems like scrubbing plates paid off.
State of play: Standing prominently at the corner of 15th and Umatilla streets, the restaurant offers upscale Mexican cuisine, inspired by fondas, which are popular in Mexico City.
- Fondas are often family-owned, hole-in-the-wall restaurants offering homemade bites.
What they're saying: "It's a different approach to Mexican food in the most traditional way," Curiel, whose family hails from Guadalajara, tells us.
What I ordered: I started with camote asado (roasted sweet potato) and the remolachas ahumadas (smoked heirloom beets).
- If veggies always tasted this flavorful, I might be convinced to turn into a vegetarian. Curiel tells me the sweet potato dish is one of his favorites.
- My top dish was the aguachile de chile fresno — a completely unique take on a seafood dish featuring seared hamachi and roasted pineapples.
- The carnitas negras (pork collar shank) was a perfect entree and was enough for my brother and me (he loved it!).
Pro tip: Ask for a side of tortillas and sauces (there are at least three.)
Of note: The restaurant has an extensive collection of top-shelf tequila and mezcal, including several cocktails using the Mexican spirits.
The bottom line: Alma Fonda Fina is on the pricier side, but it's worth every penny for a special night out, and the bar is perfect for catching up with a friend over drinks.