We tried the new-look Hot Chicken Takeover
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A spread from the new-look menu of Hot Chicken Takeover in Grandview. Photo: Alissa Widman Neese
Hot Chicken Takeover's new ownership wants Columbus to "try the food like it's a new restaurant" — so we did.
- It pains us to say it, but the 2024 version is (still) not what it once was.
Flashback: HCT began in 2014 as a mission-driven pop-up window in Olde Towne East, later adding a food truck and its first brick-and-mortar location in the North Market.
- It doubled as a way for founder Joe DeLoss to help reintegrate employees convicted of felonies into their communities.
- DeLoss sold HCT in 2021 to investment company Untamed Brands, which sold the company this May to Craveworthy Brands, led by former Jimmy John's CEO Gregg Majewski.
- HCT has added standalone locations in Clintonville, Easton, Gahanna, Grandview, Lewis Center and Westerville.
🐔 When the first location opened, the menu was limited to fried chicken in four flavors, mac and cheese, cole slaw, banana pudding, tea and ranch.
The latest: The chain's recent rebrand focuses on "Southern flavor" and an expanded menu with a "fresh new look."
- Now, it has five flavors of chicken, sandwiches with black pepper relish and pimiento cheese, chicken fried steak, eight sides, three appetizers, a kids' menu, a salad, seven sauces and even more drinks and desserts.
Our take: It's an unwieldy menu unrecognizable to those who remember the early days.
- We tried tenders, drumsticks, mac and cheese, slaw, baked beans and fried pickles, and it was all … pretty mediocre.
- The chicken is fine, but not good enough to differentiate itself from the many other chicken spots.
- Everyone's favorite mac and cheese is gone — the new version went from "OK" to "gross" as it cooled.
Friction point: Extra sauces (ranch included) are 49 cents. Just make them free and unlimited again!
💭 Alissa's thought bubble: I was overwhelmed when I walked in and saw the expanded menu. I think focusing on doing one thing well appeals to people for the simplicity — like Just Chicken, which I recently reviewed.