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Illustration: Sarah Grillo/Axios

Designer looks captured the catwalks at Fashion Weeks around the world. But beyond the runways, recycled clothing, thrifting and renting apparel are growing in popularity and reshaping the market.

Why it matters: Fashion is a massive polluter. According to the United Nations, fashion produces 20% of the world's wastewater and 10% of the world's carbon emissions — calling the habit of quick closet-turnover into question.

Where it stands: Market niches that favor the trend are emerging in the clothing industry.

Recycled materials

Some companies are producing apparel made from recycled materials ranging from water bottles to previously worn garments.

  • Rothy's, a popular shoe brand, makes flats, sneakers and loafers 100% from post-consumer water bottles.
  • Hanes, an undergarment staple, has increased the use of recycled cotton and polyester.
  • H&M, a prominent fast-fashion retailer, has committed to using 100% sustainable cotton this year and offers discounts to customers who recycle their old clothing with the company.
Apparel renting

A number of companies offer subscriptions that allow shoppers to rent pieces, often of high quality, and return them for new stock.

  • Consumers cycle through a wear-and-return closet, rather than buy individual items. The industry produces less and, in turn, pollutes less.
  • Some individual retailers — Urban Outfitters, American Eagle, Express — are creating their own rental services, while others offer an array of brands.
  • Rent the Runway, one of the leaders in rentable apparel, was valued at $1 billion last March, according to Business Insider.
The revival of thrift

Thrifting has made a comeback, with digital outlets offering re-sellers a new avenue for profit.

  • Social media has allowed thrift stores to market their content online and offer shipping services, vastly expanding access to customers.
  • Self-selling apps like Poshmark and Mercari have also allowed individuals to start listing pieces in their own closets for secondhand sale.
  • Thrifting reduces the production of new clothing and the amount of used apparel stuffed into the back of closets and trash bags.

The bottom line: There's innately something less sexy about renting or reusing clothes. However, there's also something particularly unattractive about a polluted, warming planet for the sake of a stylish fit, making the former worthy of consideration.

Go deeper: More people are into fashion, but fewer inspired by legacy outlets

Go deeper

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Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis (R) declared a state of emergency after a portion of a 12-story residential building in Surfside, Florida, collapsed at approximately 1:30 a.m. Thursday, according to AP.

The latest: The executive order will allow for federal assistance as the state continues its search-and-rescue operations. Officials have accounted for 102 people who lived in the high-rise Champlain Towers South, but 99 people remained unaccounted for by mid-afternoon, said Mayor Daniella Levine Cava of Miami-Dade County at a press conference.

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An Afghan soldier stands guard at a mosque in Kabul. Photo: Wakil Kohsar/AFP via Getty

As Afghan President Ashraf Ghani was making his way to Washington to meet with President Biden, the Wall Street Journal revealed that the U.S. intelligence community believes his government may be toppled within six months of America's withdrawal.

Why it matters: As the Taliban gains territory and the U.S. pulls its remaining forces out, hopes of a potential peace deal in Afghanistan are giving way to fears of a rapid Taliban capture of Kabul.

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Exclusive: Bipartisan group of senators urges Blinken to vaccinate Americans abroad

Secretary of State Antony Blinken. Photo: Pool/Getty Images

Sens. Chris Murphy (D-Conn.) and Jerry Moran (R-Kan.) are leading an effort urging the Biden administration to coordinate with the Defense Department to donate supplemental COVID-19 vaccine doses to U.S. embassies and consulates.

Why it matters: Millions of Americans living in countries where they are not considered eligible for the vaccine or those living in places where vaccines are not being authorized by the FDA or the World Health Organization may have to wait for months or even years to receive a vaccine.